Demis, Plunges and “Bossy” bras

It was maybe halfway into my five years bra fitting that I had one of those lightbulb moments of revelation. By this time I was pretty good at sister sizing and feeling pretty confident but one situation occasionally stumped me. Have you ever put on a bra that you like and the breast tissue seemed to fold at the top? If so, you might have been trying to wear what is referred to as a balconette or demi style. If your breast shape is longer and narrower a plunge style might work better or at least seem to fit better. Conversely, if you are wearing a plunge style and and there is empty space where the cup connects with the strap you might benefit from wearing a demi or balconette style because your breast shape is shorter and more broad. An easy way to visualize this is by thinking about portrait shaped breasts as opposed to landscape shaped. The portrait and landscape refers only to the breast shape. Women who are very petite in every other way can still have a landscape shape to their breasts and the reverse is also true. I describe landscape shape as someone who has a relatively short space between the top of the shoulder the bottom of the breast. If you’re in the correct size but your wires tend to dig in under your arms, changing brand or style might be all you need to get a more comfortable fit. This distinction is often also referred to as being “high breasted” or “low breasted” but I like the visualization of portrait and landscape. Often you can even look at a picture of a bra and tell if it is one or the other. A bra will simply be more comfortable the better it matches your individual shape. I for example often have a hard time with a demi or balconette fit.

Many bra brands have typical frame that is the basis for different styles they make and some brands are typically designed around one or the other “frame” though most have some of each style. While some women can wear either style, some women are distinctly one or the other. This is one area where fitting yourself or generally shopping for bras without good knowledge of fit and design can be very frustrating.

The differences in shape or frame of a bra is compounded by what some fitters (me!) call “bossy” bras. American women in particular tend to be self conscious of having their bra show under a shirt. They prefer no seams and no “headlights” showing. The t-shirt bra is the most asked for item in many shops which typically means a bra with some padding and smooth cup. There is certainly nothing wrong with this but for women who have those distinctly portrait or landscape shaped breasts, it helps to pick the style that matches your particular shape or it may be frustratingly ill fitting. The more padding they have the bossier they are because there’s not much flexibility to the shape when it’s a moulded cup. Often it will either match your particular shape or it won’t. There are a few styles that work on as many as 99% of women regardless of shape but there are relatively few of these heroes of bra fitting. This is where someone like myself can help. As a buyer and fitter I worked with many different brands, fits and styles and I can help direct you to those that will work best for you.

I know most people won’t be traveling for the holidays this year but if you have family pictures planned or just want to look your best, a professional consultation can do wonders for your look! Connect with me soon to see if I can solve some of your fit issues and get you into a more comfortable, lifted and supportive fit! I bet I can! 🧑🏻‍💼